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STONEWARE : WHEEL THROWN & SCULPTED

I’ve been pottering around Thomas Louis’ studio for some years now. I started shooting pots on the wheel with my camera first, that somehow led me to poke around with clay to make sculptural pieces, then I got fascinated by glaze chemistry, till I finally started sitting at the wheel. Once, Thomas came by my wheel and said I was filling up his shelves with my thrown pots and I better start doing something about it. So here I am doing something about it. More incoming!

PHOTO ESSAY : MUD FOLK EXPLORATIONS IN KACHCHH

Tracing the origins of pottery from Kachchh is excruciating, especially with the potters who we are lucky enough to be working with here, the Sind pottery tradition yawns way back in time. The land keeps getting renamed as boundaries shift, so I think it’s imperative to get into history, especially given the times we live in.

Sir Charles Birdwood, in 1880, traced the origins of the pottery of Sindh to the Saracens, he said it came ‘down to them in an unbroken tradition from the times of “Temple of Seven Spheres,” or Birs-i-Nimrud at Borsippa, near Babylon, of the temple of Sakkara in Egypt, and of the early trade between China and Egypt, and China and Oman, and the valley of Tigris and Euphrates. The glazed pottery of Sindh probably dates from this period, and, as we shall presently see, was directly influenced by the traditions surviving in Persia of the ancient civilisations of Nineveh and Babylon.’

Delicious names. I’ll go with Birdwood, who was infamous for having a soft spot for Indian potters, even Ananda Coomaraswamy mentioned him. In Birdwood’s book, ‘The Industrial Arts of India, 1880’, 10 of his 12 illustrations of pottery, were pieces from Sindh and he stocked a lot of them pots when he raised funds to co-found the Victoria & Albert Museum in Bombay (now the Dr. Bhau Daji Lad Mumbai City Museum).


On the field shooting mud folk explorations with Thomas Louis, a pleasure watching pots flying off the wheel in Kachchhi clay with the potters of Sindh.
Master potter Aamadh Kaasam at the wheel, a walking datamine for Kachchhi traditional pottery techniques. Awe-inspiring watching him work, indefatigable pace every day. He came from a village 86 kms away .
That’s master craftsman Ramzu Kumbhar at the wheel. The only way to truly understand the intricacies of how Kachchhi clay is treated, molded, bisqued and fired, is by watching the potters at work . Oral transmission rules. There is no documentation, we live in stories.
The potters are revisiting nature and form studies with Thomas, this super shy Indian Star Tortoise being the live reference. Kachchh, translates as tortoise in Sanskrit, the land’s topographical features resembling an upturned tortoise.
The potters are revisiting nature and form studies with Thomas, this super shy Indian Star Tortoise being the live reference. Kachchh, translates as tortoise in Sanskrit, the land’s topographical features resembling an upturned tortoise.
Watching the Indian Star Tortoise emerge through the day. A tortoise taught us, quite like Lewis Carroll wrote. ‘Why did you call him Tortoise, if he wasn’t one?’ Alice asked. ‘We called him Tortoise because he taught us,’ said the Mock Turtle angrily: ‘really you are very dull!’
Head’s out #atortoisetaughtus
Head’s out #atortoisetaughtus
Another Indian Star Tortoise shelling out, traditional Kachchhi style 🤘🏽 #atortoisetaughtus
Cannot help but think of ‘The tortoise trainer’ by Osman Hamdi Bey, 1906. . Apparently the tortoises were trained to walk in a single file along the corridors of the King’s palace with candles on their backs. The painting was done in sarcasm. Osman Hamdi Bey, a Turkish intellectual-artist, merged oriental earth palettes with occidental tones, sometimes involving both forms in the same composition. Saw him in a museum in Berlin first, interestingly in the company of paintings of a German art movement which keenly watched ‘what people did everyday’, moving away from the usual elitist focus on ideas of beauty and commissioned portraits which funded arts in those times, as they do in these times.
Thought of riding out into the Rann of Kachchh, found out Ground Zero is sunk in 4 ft water because of sporadic rains and the recent cyclones, the camels have run to higher ground. 400 tents have come up as a tent city, with paragliding activities for entertainment in the desert, the flamingoes have changed their landing sites. Climate change and men gone amok, I’m still looking out for that idea of India I remember. Thomas made flamingo heads, the bodies come later.
To each potter, his own throwing technique. Each piece, unpredictably unique. Potter Haroun Budha here, visualising forms for Thomas.
On the left, Potter Haroun Budha making an elephant. On the right, Potter Haroun Budha making another elephant, shot 25 years earlier. This photograph featured in a book by cultural anthropologist Stephen P. Huyler, 1996. The book happened to be around, Haroun was surprised to see himself in it. Great timing, universe. Elephants don’t forget.
Quick dash to the indigo dyeing & Ajrakh block printing studios, next door. Eleven years ago, I learned how to make natural colours from this very family, under the watchful guidance of Sakthivel Vilvapathy. We made the colours red, black and white from scratch at the time, squelching around in camel dung, block printing and dyeing in indigo vats, day after day, it was a purely magical experience. Alchemy.
Tracing the origins of pottery from Kachchh is excruciating, especially with the potters who we are lucky enough to be working with here, the Sind pottery tradition yawns way back in time. The land keeps getting renamed as boundaries shift, so I think it’s imperative to get into history, especially given the times we live in. Sir Charles Birdwood, in 1880, traced the origins of the pottery of Sindh to the Saracens, he said it came ‘down to them in an unbroken tradition from the times of “Temple of Seven Spheres,” or Birs-i-Nimrud at Borsippa, near Babylon, of the temple of Sakkara in Egypt, and of the early trade between China and Egypt, and China and Oman, and the valley of Tigris and Euphrates. The glazed pottery of Sindh probably dates from this period, and, as we shall presently see, was directly influenced by the traditions surviving in Persia of the ancient civilisations of Nineveh and Babylon.’ . . Delicious names. I’ll go with Birdwood, who was infamous for having a soft spot for Indian potters, even Ananda Coomaraswamy mentioned him. In Birdwood’s book, ‘The Industrial Arts of India, 1880’, 10 of his 12 illustrations of pottery, were pieces from Sindh and he stocked a lot of them pots when he raised funds to co-found the Victoria & Albert Museum in Bombay (now the Dr. Bhau Daji Lad Mumbai City Museum). .
Tracing the origins of pottery from Kachchh is excruciating, especially with the potters who we are lucky enough to be working with here, the Sind pottery tradition yawns way back in time. The land keeps getting renamed as boundaries shift, so I think it’s imperative to get into history, especially given the times we live in. Sir Charles Birdwood, in 1880, traced the origins of the pottery of Sindh to the Saracens, he said it came ‘down to them in an unbroken tradition from the times of “Temple of Seven Spheres,” or Birs-i-Nimrud at Borsippa, near Babylon, of the temple of Sakkara in Egypt, and of the early trade between China and Egypt, and China and Oman, and the valley of Tigris and Euphrates. The glazed pottery of Sindh probably dates from this period, and, as we shall presently see, was directly influenced by the traditions surviving in Persia of the ancient civilisations of Nineveh and Babylon.’ . . Delicious names. I’ll go with Birdwood, who was infamous for having a soft spot for Indian potters, even Ananda Coomaraswamy mentioned him. In Birdwood’s book, ‘The Industrial Arts of India, 1880’, 10 of his 12 illustrations of pottery, were pieces from Sindh and he stocked a lot of them pots when he raised funds to co-found the Victoria & Albert Museum in Bombay (now the Dr. Bhau Daji Lad Mumbai City Museum). .
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